Thursday, December 15, 2005, 07:35 AM
Tomorrow starts our month vacation in southern
Argentina and Chile, also known as Patagonia. Before
we head off for weeks of hiking in the mountains and
staring awe struck at glaciers and the rest of the
incredible scenery, we wanted to wish everyone a Merry
Christmas and happy holidays. May you continue to find
happiness in the New Year as well. Now here's a quick
update from us . . .
Life in Bolivia continues to be exciting. The
political front is escalating as elections are
approaching on Dec. 18. These elections are worth
reading and educating yourself about since the US
certainly is involved . . . not necessarily in a good
way. We will be out of the country during elections,
so will watch the results from afar.
Wendell and I are continuing our work at Colonia.
Progres is being made on becoming a non-profit in the
US. We are now registered in Washington State and are
working on federal status to make all donations tax
exempt. The work with the kids continues to be
rewarding. Now that they finally have a housing
structure, the next phase in construction is getting
bathrooms, plumbing, and a library built. Wendell went
camping with the kids last week and will also go on a
biking adventure with them in January. Check out the
Charity Bolivia website for further
information or how to donate. Also, check out the blog
and for the latest pictures and stories from
Wendell! He is going to start blogging on the Charity Bolivia website on happenings and goings on at Colonia Ecologica.
Bolivia is a beautiful country! Every time we travel
somewhere we continue to think we've just discovered
the most impressive place on earth. Check out our
pictures from Toro Toro where we saw as many dinosaur
prints as we did trees, and tested our sense of
adventure as we climbed through waterfalls, scrambled
through small spaces (poor Wendell) and were
privileged to be the third tour group to see a newly
discovered cave!
Despite our incredible adventures, what we miss the
most is all of you! This year continues to pass by
with incredible speed. Some days we look around and
wonder how we could leave; other days it's just the
opposite. Regardless, we're thinking of you during the
holidays and sending happy wishes.
Besos,
Carlye and Wendell
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( 3 / 1433 )Wednesday, December 7, 2005, 10:05 AM
Bolivia is abuzz in the world of online media and news outlets. It seems that the politics of Bolivia have become "THE" story around the world. Analysis, polls, debate, right vs left, US vs Venezuala/Cuba, rumors of coups, rumors of US military intervention, countless blog entries, and much speculation and dirt throwing from even the most "unbiased" news outlets. If in doubt, go to Google Alerts and do a daily search on Bolivia or check some of the links to the right. Much more qualified and interesting people are out there writing on Bolivian politics than I, so I shall refrain.
I will, however, tell of a conversation I had with an expat who is married to a Bolivian. This expat currently lives in Cochabamba with 40 years of Bolivian experience and life. Whether I brought up the conversation, the expat did, or we heard some reference on the radio or some billboard, I don't remember. But the conversation was brief. The issues in Bolivia over the expats 40 years of life here had remained virtually unchanged; nationalization, marginalization, indigenous rights, land, gas, etc. In the expats view, the only thing that has changed in Bolivian politics are the faces of the people leading the political parties. The words coming out of their mouths remaining a firm consistent blathering diatribe of nothingness that means something to somebody and nothing to nobody. Each head has a solution to every problem that will change how Bolivians live and relate to the world at large. But the only real noticeable changes year to year happen to be the faces on these talking heads. And that was it, real plain and simple like.
Throughout the many many articles, blogs, and media reports I have read over my time here in Bolivia, and prior to coming, I've come to a incredibly profound conclusion. That frankly, people don't have a fucking clue. They would all be just as well off playing the slots or the stock market for all their analysis, history, and predictions of the future. The best we can hope for are educated (and I use educated very very loosely) guesses on when the triple 7's will roll up the screen or when the latest biotech company you invested in will discover the secret to eternal life. And then, of course, get it patented, past the FDA, copyrighted, intellectually licensed, and not have a third world country not be afraid of being labeled a "terrorist" country and say "screw ya" and start producing a generic product at a fraction of the cost of the branded "Eternalax."
So...maybe ol' George Carlin summed it up best when he said, "When you think there's a solution, you're part of the problem." Or perhap G.K. Chesterton had it right when saying, "It isn't that they can't see the solution, it's that they can't see the problem." But...it might have been Goethe who really nailed it with "The solution to every problem is another problem." It's really not that I'm cynical.
So I'll leave you (whoever you are) with a tasty Evo Morales sandwich straight from Toro Toro, Bolivia.
;)
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( 2.9 / 1435 )Monday, November 7, 2005, 10:49 AM
The rest of the photos can be found here.
;)
Favio and Mario checking out the route.
;)
Third lake we came across after about an hour. The right most scree slope is the route to the top. You can see a Monica, Kiko, and Favio by the lake.
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( 3 / 1478 )Monday, November 7, 2005, 10:33 AM
Excerpt from Lost in Translation
CHARLOTTE: Do you remember when we met at the bar?... You were wearing a tuxedo.
BOB: But the first time I saw you was in the elevator.
CHARLOTTE: Really?
BOB: Yeah, you don't remember?
CHARLOTTE: Did I scowl at you?
BOB: No, you smiled.
CHARLOTTE: I don't remember.
BOB: I know, I kind of blend in here.
You would think it kind of hard for a 6'5" guy in a canary yellow long sleeve shirt and a wide brimmed hat to blend into Bolivia. But alas, I go unnoticed, despite my best efforts at traditional fashions and immaculant spanish speaking skills. Perhaps with my cholita skirt and mouth full of coca leaves I look local, regardless of the canary yellow shirt. Perhaps Bolivians take it for what it is, a fucking freak show, and move on about their business.
Nine gringos and 4 bolivians in a local #17 truffi heading up to the mountains must seem like a traveling freak show. Especially with some tall guy with his head poking out the roof like a giraffe trying franitcally to keep on his wide brimmed hat.
The #17 doesn't usually head to the mountains, but travels a set route day after day in the city. It is in fact the bus we take to get to Colonia every week. The end of the line happens to conicide with the front step of Colonia. Kiko had made arrangements with one of the drivers to take a group of gringos up to climb Mt. Tunari. WIth the help of Dan and Carlye signing up teachers, we were raising money for Colonia by acting as a tour company of sorts.
Carlye, Dan, and I had all climbed Tunari the previous year and had assured everyone that the hike (more of a walk really) was actually easy and the altitude was the only hard part. We'd drive to about 4100 meters and walk up to the 5200 meter (~17,000 feet) peak. Kiko on the other hand takes 10 or so kids up to Tunari every year on a 4 day climb, which involves technical skills, rope, and equipment. Some of the kids are 10 years old. They take only some blankets, food, and water.They sleep under the stars or under rocks where some natural shelter has been formed.
At 7 am on Sat. Nov. 5th, all nine gringos and Kiko, his son Favio (17 years old), and his niece Monica (15 years old) all pile into the #17 with excitement and trepidation. 3 hours later we arrive at the side of a high mountain lake and start heading up the first hill. The gringos are gasping for breath within the first 15 minutes of the hike. Kiko, Favio, and Monica are actually running up the hill at some points and will continue to do so the rest of the day.
At this point some folks want to know which peak is Tunari and what route we'll take to get there. I have no idea and so pass the question on to Kiko. He tells us that you can't, in fact, see the peak at all, and we're not going up Tunari at all. Tunari takes 4 days (2 minimum) to climb. We're going up another peak.
Rumblings and grumblings about paying to go up Tunari begin. I'm thinking, "Oh shit, I promised these people we were going up Tunari, what do I do now." I had mentioned Tunari to Kiko many times. I was positive we were heading up Tunari. THE Tunari, not a minor peak behind it. So I offer people their money back if they want, but the place we are at is in fact much more beautiful than the Tunari route, which in truly was. There were lakes everywhere contrasted by bare stark cliffs and mountains. Everyone agrees somewhat reluctantly to continue on and that the money is going to a good cause anyway. I'm a little embarassed to say the least.
Not only was the scenery much more beautiful, but the easy walk we had talked about turned into climbing up vertical chimneys, chutes, and scrambling up steep scree slopes. Just about nobody in the group had done this type of climbing before and were for the most part scared shitless. Traversing eight inch wide ledges that drop straight down 60 feet onto sharp rocks tends to cast a doubt or two into your mind about just what the hell you're doing.
So several hours later we are exhausted and walking (slowly, very slowly) up to the highest point on our journey. A lone cross made of 1X4's stands looking over the world below. It looks hauntingly familiar. I've seen this cross before, I'm positive. I'm walking next to Favio and ask him in Spanish if he and his dad had put the cross on the hill. He responds that yes they had. With a group of street kids that they had brought up. That's when I realize where I had seen the cross. Kiko had shown me a video that week of the trip they took with street kids hauling a cross up all the steep chutes and chimneys and slopes we had just climbed. He had in fact been showing me exactly where he was going to take us. I had just assumed he was showing me an interesting video of one of their climbs. He probably assumed my comments of "increible" and "que lindo" were stamps of approval for the trip.
And what a lucky stamp of approval it turned out to be. The climb was challenging and probably the most difficult thing most everybody on the trip had ever done. I don't remember how many times I heard somebody say, "We're going where?" "We're going up there?" "Uh uh, I'm not going up that!" "Are you fucking crazy?" And then proceed to do it, to look at their fear and fatigue in the face and to overcome it. To climb down a steep crevice at the end of a hard days climb when the legs are shaking and the arms feel like noodles. When you just want to sit down and sip a handcrafted Portland microbrew. To support and help each other when it was needed like teammates who'd been together for years.
Then I began to appreciate a little more what Kiko, Carmen, and their extended family are doing. They take young kids on trips like this every year. Much harder trips actually. Kiko has been up on the mountains with kids almost every year since 1978. They are teaching kids about life and shaping their character. Showing kids what it means to push themselves physically and mentally.That it is ok to be afraid as long as you don't let it conquer you. It is intensely powerful to take a child that most likely feels abandoned, neglected, and worthless and show them the true power that resides within them. That fears can and need to be dealt with. And that by working as a team and together you can accomplish even more than one person alone can do. That there are people to support you and that you can rely on and in return that they can rely on you.
So I'm learning that being lost in translation is alright, if not very challenging. Across multiple languages the inherent flaws in communication tend to be overpronounced. It is the universal truths though that transcend communication. Character resides in the body, mind, and spirit and these have a language of their own that everyone speaks.
BOB: ... the more you know who you are... you don't care about things the same way.
CHARLOTTE: I just don't know what I'm supposed to be. I thought maybe I wanted to be a writer... but I hate what I write, and I tried taking pictures, but John's so good at that, and mine are so mediocre... and every girl goes through a photography phase, like horses, you know dumb pictures of your feet...
BOB: You'll figure it out. I'm not worried about you. Keep writing.
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( 3 / 1322 )Friday, October 14, 2005, 08:00 AM
Bolivia has received quite a bit of media coverage as of late. This is mostly due to the large social movements in the last few years dealing with water and nationalization of the enormous hydrocarbon reserves that are found here. Both of which have led to large scale protests, violence, and the removal of more than one president. The folks at Narconews have taken the story much farther than most media outlets, both commercial and independent, and dealved into what may very well be the heart of issues here in Bolivia, land. And the struggle through which the campesinos have gone through, and continue to go through, in order to have a small piece of what is historically theirs. Through the use of land reform laws, civil disobedience, and plane gritty determinism the campesinos are fighting for what amounts to a piece of land on which to eak out an existance on their own terms.
On a more positive side of land use Bolivia has recently been praised on the world stage for its progressive forest management and certification of these forests, both for commercial and national reservations. Considering what most roads are like here in Bolivia I'm pretty sure there are no worries, just yet, that the national reserves and forests will become crisscrossed with roads as is the case with the US.
;)
Picture I took of a condor in the foothills of the andes in Samaipata, Bolivia.
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