2012-02-05T15:33:42Z Wendell and Carlye Krohn krohn@wendellandcarlye.com Copyright 2012, Wendell and Carlye Krohn SPHPBLOG
We leave in two days to head up to La Paz. From there we'll see the largest ruins in Bolivia, bike the "world's most dangerous road" (yes, tempting fate again!), spend some time on Isla del Sol and Lake Titicaca before entering Peru. Our 4 day hike up to Machu Picchu is scheduled for June 21. The plan is to do a bunch of trekking in different parts of Peru before heading into Ecuador. In Ecuador we'll climb Cotopaxi, a volcano outside of Quito, enjoy the beaches, hot springs, etc. July 30 we fly from Quito to Cartagena, Columbia where we'll spend our last week working on our skin cancer, visiting some islands and the quaint old town. August 4 is the day we once again land on US soil. We're definitely taking advantage of such a long vacation and are very excited to see so much!!! You can follow our travels on our blog and website. www.wendellandcarlye.com. The process of leaving Bolivia has been emotionally challenging, more difficult than we could have imagined. Our life is good here and we've settled in nicely with the pace of life and everything that goes along with it. We're not too fond of goodbyes in general and honestly, I've avoided a few. Our toughest one will come tomorrow - saying goodbye to Kiko, Carmen, and all of the kids at Colonia, the home where we've spent a lot of time. We have a despedida (going away party) tomorrow and will spend most of the day there. We continue to work on our charity to send these students to universities here in Cochabamba. It's been tough to get going, but one of the most rewarding experiences we've had.

Michael, Wendell's brother, came for a visit a few weeks ago and we had a great time with him. And this morning our good friend Emily arrived - I can't tell you what she thinks so far of Bolivia since she's seen the airport, our breakfast table, and the bed! Having a few familiar faces is certainly helping us transition as well.

Either way, a part of us will stay here in Bolivia and one day we will return. Plus, every once in a while we'll need our fix of saltenas, canela y leche y coco(not coca!)ice cream, our Bolivian family at Colonia, and the most stunning country we've ever seen. YOU should definitely see this country some day!

Thanks for all your support during our adventures here. See you all soon!

Besos y abrazos,
Carlye
]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry060609-115802 2006-06-09T00:00:00Z 2006-06-09T00:00:00Z
Our world is once again becoming unstable and yet very predictable. The process of leaving Bolivia started a couple months ago as a need to medicate an unannounced pain. Now, it is tangible and real, as we have begun to say goodbye to friendships that can only be built and experienced through living in a foreign land. Leaving the US to come to Bolivia was tough, but with an end in sight. We knew in two years we would return to once again live in our home and be near our friends and family. The people we are closest to, both those at Colonia Ecologica (who will still be here in a couple years when we visit) while the others (teachers, volunteers, NGO workers, and the like) will be scattered to the corners of the world.

Leaving Bolivia is akin to standing on the beach with your back to the ocean. It doesn’t make any sense why everyone is running for higher ground and shouting at you. It still seems like just another sunny day on the beach. Not a cloud in the sky until the shadow creeps over you and it’s far too late to escape the imminent tsunami. You wonder how you could be so dumb as to not have figured out those all too obvious signs. Like the guy who yelled out, “hey STUPID, get moving, there’s a Bloody Big Fucking Wave comin.” Yeah, I guess I know what that guy meant now. There really is nothing left to do but step into the surf and ride that bbfw until it crushes the air from your beating chest. Enjoy it even.

Sunday the 11th marks our departure from Cochabamba and the start of two months of travel in Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, and Columbia. So the end of this blog is almost nigh. We’ll be updating the blog during our travels to continue keeping friends and family apprised of what’s going on. Hasta luego Bolivia. Vamos a extrañarte.
]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry060609-115005 2006-06-09T00:00:00Z 2006-06-09T00:00:00Z
So it is on the G bus here in Cochabamba. I frequently ride the G downtown to either go to the post office or to pick up other items in the sprawling market known as La Cancha. And so it was the other day on my return from La Cancha. The bus just happened to be crammed with people. Usually, in this situation, I take a place at the door of the bus where I can actually stand with head room, rather than the head cramping interior of the bus, even if that means I am hanging out the bus door. But the driver was having none of my loitering around the door. He sent me into the interior of the G, a place I’m seldom comfortable with on a day the “G” is full of people. A 5’ 9” man can stand upright and be comfortable in the isle of the G bus. I have no luxury of being 5’9”. So there I stood, backpack on the front, wide brim hat clumsily hanging from my neck (probably in some poor cholitas face), and my head full tilt sideways, my ear pressed against the ceiling while I grasp the rail that runs the length of the roof just glad to have my anonymity.


The G Ride

The G Ride

But being uncomfortable in the isle of the "G" doesn’t last long. The driver has no intention of letting me rest uncomfortably either in the isle or comfortably in the door of his “G RIDE”. He really intends for me to be physically comfortable rather than my preferable mental comfort I take in anonymity, which I mildly am in the middle of the bus isle. So he screams out to the passengers of the G ride, “Somebody get UP and let this big gringo sit down!” His tone of voice was authoritative! I live and hang out with teachers, the creators of the authoritative tone. This G ride driver is in the wrong profession. A school girl practically launches out of her seat as though she mistreated her grandparents and has been thoroughly reprimanded. For a split second her ear pressed to the ceiling just like mine and I looked her square in the eye. Her fear and apologetic look forever locked into my subconscious mind. The entire bus is staring directly at me. There is no choice but to make this young girl stand in the isle while I take her place, the whole of the G ride staring on in fascination and supposed relief that the “big gringo” is now “supposedly” comfortable.

My anonymity here appears to be a myth, a creation, a fantasy of my run away imagination. One sentence from the driver of the G and I’m a large glaring white hideous statue in the middle of the city plaza. The statue everyone wonders about. Who made that thing? And who decided to put it here? What were they thinking? Who even encouraged that guy to be an artist, let alone make something that would stand in the middle of the city and represent us?

But so it is on the “G ride.” I still don my hat and sit my big ass on the “ride” and just go with the flow. The music still plays on in my ears and the remnants of a once innocent anonymity struggles to pull itself together into a coherent form even though the “G RIDE” refuses to let that happen.
]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry060424-205146 2006-04-25T00:00:00Z 2006-04-25T00:00:00Z

It's been a tough week getting back into the swing of work and projects. Last week being Semana Santa we (“we” being Carlye, our friend, and I) jumped on a bus to Oruro and then a train to reach Uyuni to travel for the week of vacation. One day was spent on the Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flats in the world. The famed Great Salt Lake of Utah ranks third after Chile. It is an expansive and majestic piece of earth in its sheer solitude and vastness. It had rained the prior week and the whole area was turned into a giant mirror throwing glints of light off the salt crystals, giving the impression of riding a boat on calm seas rather than a jeep cruising rapidly across land.

Days two and three were spent in a jeep as well touring the areas of southwest Bolivia. The pictures you’ll see are fairly amazing, but as usual, cannot compare with reality. High altitude lakes turned from a stale blue to tropical green as the wind kicked up algae. Dull rust colored lagunas became scorching red seas of flame with pink flamingos patrolling tranquilly as the sun set and the full moon rose over the surrounding sulfur stained volcanoes ruining forever my Miami Vice intro assured illusions of tropical dwelling flamingos and bikini clad women.

After enduring the cold that comes with being at around 5000 meters in altitude we parted ways with our friend and headed down to the balmy climate of Potosi at 4100 meters, the worlds highest city. At one point in its history it also boasted the title of the world’s richest city. Thirty-two colonial churches and narrow streets rest in the shade of Cerro Rico, the mountain responsible for filling the Spanish coffers for decades. Friday night is the traditional….well I don’t remember… but anyway, the streets were packed with people going to seven different churches as part of this nameless Good Friday ritual. For each new church you enter you receive three wishes to do with what you please. We went to two churches so we’ve got a combined 12 wishes between us. You had better be nice.

Unfortunately that Friday was also a ferriado and not a damn thing was open. So it was that on Saturday morning we took the tour of Casa de Moneda before taking a taxi to Sucre and then a hellacious over night bus to Cochabamba where we arrived at 3:30 am. The Casa de Moneda is one of the original eight mints established by the Spanish to print coins before being sent by ship to, well, Spain. At the time it was at the height of technological achievement and large wooden gears were turned by mules while lots of slaves plied their trade to stamp out a variety of silver coins with likeness’ of just about no one that actually produced them.

So check out some PHOTOS and enjoy. Did I mention we love this country?
]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry060420-172956 2006-04-21T00:00:00Z 2006-04-21T00:00:00Z
Most importantly we are in need of your help. Along with my folks and Carlye’s brother, we have recently started a charity in Washington state called Charity Bolivia. The paperwork for becoming a 501 (3) C nonprofit has begun, but the need for financial support is already underway. The goal of Charity Bolivia is to support kids from Colonia Ecologica in their effort to obtain a higher education through helping establish their independence and supporting university expenses.

For those that don’t know, Colonia Ecologica is the project Carlye and I volunteer at here in Cochabamba. It is a project started by a Bolivian couple, Kiko and Carmen, to give a much needed home and family to kids. This (a family) is the gift they have given us in our time in Bolivia as well. Specifically, this means both orphans and abandoned kids, who may have family but whose parents either can’t support them or don’t want them, have a place to call home and where they are loved unconditionally. Currently there are 21 kids living at Colonia ranging from 4 months to 18 years in age. In the afternoons another 30+ kids come to Colonia as an after school program. They get assistance with homework, reading, a structured environment (including chores!), and a safe place to play. Carlye goes 1-2 days a week to teach English to some of the older kids and also brings some of her students two Fridays a month as a volunteer program. Three days a week I go to Colonia in the afternoon to help with schoolwork, read with the kids, work on projects and to hang out and play. I might be considered the 6’5” pet gringo who manages to humorously hit his head everyday on the low hanging roofs. I’ve long passed the humorous stage, but alas, kids are kids and adults injuring themselves are a never ceasing source of entertainment. There is a swing set on the property, but I also serve as the live action jungle gym!

Right now there are two students we are beginning to support. Susy and Roger are siblings that plan to start university in June, and are currently in university prep classes. I will get a bio of each of them up over the next few weeks, like what they are studying, their histories, etc. so you can get to know them. They are dedicated, hardworking kids that we’d love to help get ahead in life. In order for them to receive money from Charity Bolivia, they will work at Colonia a set number of hours each week helping instruct kids, doing manual labor around the place, implementing learning projects, and whatever else needs to be done. In this manner Colonia will begin to become self sufficient as older kids get educated, help teach younger kids, start careers, and are able to eventually give back financially or in time and expertise.

Also, we’d like to help support Carmen in her goals to go back to university. She is interested in studying teaching and child psychology, both of which are highly needed at Colonia and which are in scarce supply here in Bolivia. Next February, Favio, another high school graduate working as a volunteer for a year, will be joining the group of students bringing the total to four. Carmen, of course, lives at Colonia so her education costs will be minimal for her. Just to give you an idea, public universities here cost around $10/month for tuition cost. This doesn’t include supplies and books, but imagine! Favio, on the other hand, has a lot of artistic talent and is interested in graphic design. The only program in Cochabamba is at a private university which costs significantly more, around $200/month. We’d love to assist him in his dreams as well as Carmen, Susy, and Roger, not to mention the kids that will graduate in the next few years who would also like to attend university.

Other than tuition and university costs, we also plan to support these students in terms of housing and living expenses. For the benefit of both the students and Colonia, it’s time for the older ones to move out! Kiko and Carmen need additional space for new children; plus, these students are longing for some independence and a living situation closer to the university. Again, a small amount of money goes a long way – it’s about $50/month in rent and utilities, along with one time costs of general items (i.e. bed, sheets, comforter, pots, silverware, etc). We are donating all of our household items once we leave in June, but don’t have all of the necessary items to give, like a bed, since our apartment comes furnished. For each student, only $200 is required to furnish an entire apartment with bed, stove, etc.

So what does this mean? It means these kids need our support. A dollar goes a long, long, long way here in Bolivia. What isn’t needed is a lot of money. Just a little bit to make a huge difference. Maybe it means drinking a home brewed cup of coffee once a week rather than the store bought espresso. That extra $12 dollars per month means so much more here in Bolivia than 4 cups of coffee. It’s a university education and the opportunity to change more than one life. Not much money really.

We are in the process of coordinating with friends of ours that have a charity by the same name ran out of England and Holland. They raise money for the physical construction of a home and other monthly and material needs of Colonia. They have a website at www.charity-bolivia.org that we plan on sharing in the near future. On the website you are able to setup a monthly donation or a one time donation. Soon, there will be an option for donating to either the physical construction or the educational costs of Colonia.

For now, if you want to help out you can send checks to Charity Bolivia, c/o Rita Crawford, at 1420 Ginkgo St. S.E. , Auburn, WA, 98092. Or you can go to a Washington Mutual branch and deposit the money directly into the Charity Bolivia checking account. The information is Charity Bolivia/ Rita H Crawford/ Wendell J Krohn Account # 188380340.

We’ll give everyone an update when we have an online donation option available through www.charity-bolivia.org for the US based Charity Bolivia.

Thanks for your support everyone!!! We wish that you could experience the magic of Colonia and be warmed by the beautiful smiles of these children. They truly have been a gift to our lives while we’ve been living here and we hope to give them the gift of education in return.

Besos y abrazos,
Wendell and Carlye

We have a bunch of pictures up on our website.]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry060408-105346 2006-04-08T00:00:00Z 2006-04-08T00:00:00Z Charity Bolivia Blog is now updated with bike trip stories and what is happening at Colonia Ecologica. Pictures are up from the trip as well.



We've moved into a new apartment, which happens to be 11 stories up in the same building we have been living in for the last 5 months. We are enjoying the views of Cochabamba immensely. Storms and rain have been racking Bolivia over the last month. And while we are watching the magnificent storms light up the sky in dazzling displays of lightening and listening to the steady roll of thunder from our high perch there are people all over Bolivia cut off from supplies, roads and bridges washed out, crops ruined, and people dying from the weather. Quite a stark contrast from life as we see it. It's amazing how things don't seem real sometimes unless they are right in your face.

After much thought and talk and a meeting with a local lawyer, Carlye and I have decided to not attempt a Bolivian adoption. The risks and difficulties are a bit overwhelming and we are looking forward to returning to the states in a short 6 months.

Carnival has arrived in Cochabamba. I took my first water balloon in the back yesterday on my first run in 3 months. For the next three weeks or so we will run the risk of getting wet any time we venture into the streets. Roving bands of teenagers loaded down with water balloons roam the streets looking for auspicious targets, usually good looking girls. Although, it seems, as though large red bearded gringos make decent water balloon fodder as well. What can I say, I'm just a sexy bitch when it comes to having a bullseye tatooed on my forehead. ]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry060211-133523 2006-02-11T00:00:00Z 2006-02-11T00:00:00Z


New Years Eve Carlye and I were camping in the Chilean national park, Torres del Paine where we managed to make it to 12:05 before falling fast asleep after a 12 mile hike that day. The last of a 5 day 58 mile trek. We actually were still enjoying the last light of the day when we went to bed at 12:05 am.

This is going to brief and we'll tell more of our travels later on. We posted pics up from our journey, so feel free to check them out. I even tried my hand at a little moderation and only put a fraction of the pictures up that we actually took.

I've also started writing on Charity Bolivia's blog about stuff happening out there. I'm actually leaving tonight on a 2 week bicycle tour of the Altiplano and Yungas with Kiko and 8 of the older boys and girls. We'll be biking about 50 km's per day or so. Pictures and stories of that little journey will be updated when I return at the end of the month. I promise not to put any explicit photos up of what, I'm sure, is going to be a very black and blue back side. And since Kiko says there will be no crying allowed there will be no evidence of my weeping either.

Take care and we wish everyone the best in this new year!]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry060113-095759 2006-01-13T00:00:00Z 2006-01-13T00:00:00Z Argentina and Chile, also known as Patagonia. Before
we head off for weeks of hiking in the mountains and
staring awe struck at glaciers and the rest of the
incredible scenery, we wanted to wish everyone a Merry
Christmas and happy holidays. May you continue to find
happiness in the New Year as well. Now here's a quick
update from us . . .

Life in Bolivia continues to be exciting. The
political front is escalating as elections are
approaching on Dec. 18. These elections are worth
reading and educating yourself about since the US
certainly is involved . . . not necessarily in a good
way. We will be out of the country during elections,
so will watch the results from afar.

Wendell and I are continuing our work at Colonia.
Progres is being made on becoming a non-profit in the
US. We are now registered in Washington State and are
working on federal status to make all donations tax
exempt. The work with the kids continues to be
rewarding. Now that they finally have a housing
structure, the next phase in construction is getting
bathrooms, plumbing, and a library built. Wendell went
camping with the kids last week and will also go on a
biking adventure with them in January. Check out the
Charity Bolivia website for further
information or how to donate. Also, check out the blog
and for the latest pictures and stories from
Wendell! He is going to start blogging on the Charity Bolivia website on happenings and goings on at Colonia Ecologica.

Bolivia is a beautiful country! Every time we travel
somewhere we continue to think we've just discovered
the most impressive place on earth. Check out our
pictures from Toro Toro where we saw as many dinosaur
prints as we did trees, and tested our sense of
adventure as we climbed through waterfalls, scrambled
through small spaces (poor Wendell) and were
privileged to be the third tour group to see a newly
discovered cave!

Despite our incredible adventures, what we miss the
most is all of you! This year continues to pass by
with incredible speed. Some days we look around and
wonder how we could leave; other days it's just the
opposite. Regardless, we're thinking of you during the
holidays and sending happy wishes.

Besos,
Carlye and Wendell ]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry051215-073522 2005-12-15T00:00:00Z 2005-12-15T00:00:00Z Google Alerts and do a daily search on Bolivia or check some of the links to the right. Much more qualified and interesting people are out there writing on Bolivian politics than I, so I shall refrain.

I will, however, tell of a conversation I had with an expat who is married to a Bolivian. This expat currently lives in Cochabamba with 40 years of Bolivian experience and life. Whether I brought up the conversation, the expat did, or we heard some reference on the radio or some billboard, I don't remember. But the conversation was brief. The issues in Bolivia over the expats 40 years of life here had remained virtually unchanged; nationalization, marginalization, indigenous rights, land, gas, etc. In the expats view, the only thing that has changed in Bolivian politics are the faces of the people leading the political parties. The words coming out of their mouths remaining a firm consistent blathering diatribe of nothingness that means something to somebody and nothing to nobody. Each head has a solution to every problem that will change how Bolivians live and relate to the world at large. But the only real noticeable changes year to year happen to be the faces on these talking heads. And that was it, real plain and simple like.

Throughout the many many articles, blogs, and media reports I have read over my time here in Bolivia, and prior to coming, I've come to a incredibly profound conclusion. That frankly, people don't have a fucking clue. They would all be just as well off playing the slots or the stock market for all their analysis, history, and predictions of the future. The best we can hope for are educated (and I use educated very very loosely) guesses on when the triple 7's will roll up the screen or when the latest biotech company you invested in will discover the secret to eternal life. And then, of course, get it patented, past the FDA, copyrighted, intellectually licensed, and not have a third world country not be afraid of being labeled a "terrorist" country and say "screw ya" and start producing a generic product at a fraction of the cost of the branded "Eternalax."

So...maybe ol' George Carlin summed it up best when he said, "When you think there's a solution, you're part of the problem." Or perhap G.K. Chesterton had it right when saying, "It isn't that they can't see the solution, it's that they can't see the problem." But...it might have been Goethe who really nailed it with "The solution to every problem is another problem." It's really not that I'm cynical.

So I'll leave you (whoever you are) with a tasty Evo Morales sandwich straight from Toro Toro, Bolivia.

]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry051207-100529 2005-12-07T00:00:00Z 2005-12-07T00:00:00Z here.



Favio and Mario checking out the route.



Third lake we came across after about an hour. The right most scree slope is the route to the top. You can see a Monica, Kiko, and Favio by the lake.
]]> http://www.wendellandcarlye.com/blog/index.php?entry=entry051107-104937 2005-11-07T00:00:00Z 2005-11-07T00:00:00Z